Have you ever dreamed of a vacation where you could wake up in France and have dinner in the Netherlands without ever showing your passport? Welcome to the only place on Earth where that’s not just possible—it’s the daily routine.
The island of St. Martin/St. Maarten is a unique 37-square-mile paradise split between two nations. To the north is Saint-Martin (the French side), and to the south is Sint Maarten (the Dutch side). While there is no “hard” border between them, the vibes couldn’t be more different if they tried.
If you’re planning a trip, you’ve likely asked yourself: Which side should I stay on? We’ve broken down every single detail—from the food and the beaches to the car rental logistics—to help you pick your perfect side.
1. The General Atmosphere: “European Chic” vs. “Caribbean Vegas”
The first thing you’ll notice is the “soul” of each side. It’s like comparing a quiet village in Provence to a bustling street in Miami.
The French Side: It’s all about l’art de vivre (the art of living). It feels sophisticated, laid-back, and a bit more rugged. You’ll find colorful Creole houses, quiet mornings with a café au lait, and a slower pace of life. It’s “shabby-chic” in the best way possible.
The Dutch Side: This is the heart of the action. It’s Americanized, festive, and loud. This is where the massive cruise ships dock in Philipsburg, where the neon lights of casinos glow all night, and where the energy never really dips. If you want “quiet,” you won’t find much of it here.
The Verdict: Choose the French Side for romance and relaxation; choose the Dutch Side if you want to be in the center of the party.
2. The Culinary Scene: Michelin Stars vs. Global Flavors
Food is arguably the biggest reason people visit this island.
The French Side: Known as the “Culinary Capital of the Caribbean.” You have to visit Grand Case, a single street lined with world-class French fine dining. But don’t sleep on the “Lolos”—traditional BBQ stands where you can get a massive plate of ribs, slaw, and rice for $15. The bakeries here are also the real deal; the croissants are as flaky as anything you’d find in Paris.
The Dutch Side: It’s more of a melting pot. While there are fewer “fine dining” institutions, the variety is huge. You can find incredible Lebanese, Indian, and Italian food. Plus, if you’re traveling with picky eaters, this is where you’ll find the familiar comfort of KFC, Burger King, and Domino’s.
The Verdict: The French Side wins by a landslide for foodies and gourmets.
3. Beaches: To Wear a Suit or Not?
The island has 37 beaches, and they are all technically public. However, the culture on the sand varies wildly.
The French Side: Home to Orient Bay, often called the “Saint-Tropez of the Caribbean.” It’s a long, beautiful stretch with high-end beach clubs. Keep in mind, the French side is very open about nudity. Many beaches are “clothing-optional,” especially the southern end of Orient Bay and Baie Rouge.
The Dutch Side: There is no nudity allowed here. The beaches are often more active. Maho Beach is world-famous because planes land just a few feet over your head at the airport. It’s a bucket-list item, but it’s loud and crowded. For something calmer, Mullet Bay is a local favorite with crystal-clear water.
The Verdict: The French Side for natural beauty and “European” freedom; the Dutch Side for plane-spotting and family-friendly swimming.
4. Nightlife & Shopping: Casinos vs. Boutiques
If you want to spend money, both sides are happy to help, but in very different ways.
The French Side: Nightlife is quiet. It’s about a long dinner with a great bottle of wine. Shopping is centered in Marigot, where you’ll find luxury European brands and “quirky” boutique shops selling handmade soaps and perfumes.
The Dutch Side: This is a Duty-Free haven. Philipsburg is the place to go for high-end jewelry, watches, and electronics at great prices. After the sun goes down, the Dutch side comes alive with over a dozen casinos and countless nightclubs in Simpson Bay.
The Verdict: The Dutch Side is the undisputed champion of nightlife and duty-free shopping.
5. Accommodations: Resorts vs. Boutique Hideaways
Where you lay your head will depend on your budget and your preference for “size.”
The Dutch Side: This side holds roughly 75% of the island’s large resorts. If you want a hotel with 500 rooms, three pools, and a kids’ club, you’re staying Dutch. It’s also the land of timeshares and condo rentals.
The French Side: It’s almost entirely boutique. You’ll find charming 10-room hotels or massive private villas in Terres Basses. It’s more intimate and “local” feeling, but you won’t find many “all-inclusive” packages here.
The Verdict: Stay Dutch for resort amenities; stay French for privacy and charm.
6. The Family Perspective: Which Side is Best for Kids?
Traveling with the fam? This is where the “real stats” come into play. While the French side is lovely, the Dutch Side is statistically more convenient for parents.
Infrastructure: The Dutch side uses 110V power (the same as the US). This means you don’t need adapters for baby monitors, iPads, or bottle warmers.
Water Safety: Data suggests that Dutch-side beaches like Little Bay have a 30% lower average wave height than the Atlantic-facing French side. This makes the water much safer for toddlers to splash around in.
Convenience: 90% of the island’s 24-hour pharmacies and large supermarkets (stocked with US brands) are on the Dutch side.
The Verdict: The Dutch Side is the winner for families with young children.
7. Logistics: Car Rentals & The Border
You need a car here. Taxis are expensive, and you’ll want to explore both sides.
The Border: There are no checkpoints. You’ll just see a sign that says “Welcome to the French Side.” It’s that simple.
Car Rentals: Most people rent a cart at the airport (SXM). Pro tip: get a small SUV. Some of the roads on the French side can be a bit bumpy and steep.
Safety Note: Never leave valubles in your car. Even at popular beaches, “smash and grabs” can happen. Keep the car empty and leave the doors unlocked so thieves don’t break your windows just to check the glove box. (Yes, really!)
The Verdict: Rent a car regardless of where you stay, but stay Dutch for easier airport access.
Final Summary: Which Side Wins?
Choose the French Side (Saint-Martin) if: You are on a romantic getaway, you are a “foodie,” you want to practice your French, or you prefer a quiet, natural environment.
Choose the Dutch Side (Sint Maarten) if: You are traveling with kids, you love gambling and nightlife, you want duty-free deals, or you want the comfort of a large resort.
The best part? No matter where you sleep, the other side is only a 20-minute drive away. You truly get two vacations for the price of one.
Ready to start packing? Check out my next post on the Top 10 Hidden Gems in St. Martin that the cruise ship crowds never find!